Archive for category CCTV Camera

Dallas & Fort Worth Live Traffic Webcams

The Dallas and Fort Worth Department of Transportation has established a huge network of CCTV traffic webcams, covering a large number of the big intersections and heavily congested roads in the area.

These high end, networked security cameras are live and can be helpful during bad weather, morning/evening rush hour, or if you want to see if that wreck on the turnpike has been cleared out. They are free to view, and available anytime.  Check them out at the links below.

View Dallas Traffic Cameras

View Fort Worth traffic Cameras

Many of the cameras used in situations like this are high end PTZ Cameras or Box Cameras, often utilizing outdoor housings and enclosures that keep them safe from the elements. The city also uses solar energy to power some of these installations, helping the environment while helping protect the city.

Pretty cool, if you ask me!

  • Share/Bookmark

, , , ,

12 Comments

Getting the Best Image Quality (Part 3)

This is the 3rd in a series of articles about getting the best possible image quality in your CCTV installation. The first article, getting the best image quality – part 1, was a synopsis of things that can go wrong. The second article, getting the best image quality – part 2, addressed lenses.

Second: The Camera. There is a common misconception that a camera is a camera. I cannot tell you how frequently a customer will install a $40.00 dome camera and then be surprised that it cannot be used to identify a complete stranger 100 feet away. It isn’t necessarily a problem of getting what you pay for; there are a lot of good cameras to be had for bargain prices. The real issue is that all cameras are not created equal. There are many different manufacturers for frames, body covers, sensor chips, wiring, lens mounts, connectors, switches, and other components. While some of these parts can be irrelevant to image quality, many of them are not.

In any case, the key to success is to use the grade of camera that fits your application. If you just want a general purpose camera to peek into the office and know when employees are standing around, almost anything will work. If you want to monitor a cash counting office with high-speed machines and lots of potential for loss, you will need to consider more capable, and expensive, options.

Grade 1 – Utility. These cameras are just fine when lots of detail is not a requirement. They give a general image of a room, but lines and edges may be fuzzy, and faces difficult to recognize, even up close. The most typical scenarios for this type of camera are situations where keeping a loose eye on things is the objective or those where basic evidence is needed regarding individuals you know and can recognize. Let’s assume you own a restaurant, and two employees are roughhousing in the kitchen. One of them falls and hits his head, then files a claim against you. This camera will probably get you by. You can review the footage, recognize the individuals involved, ask the employee to your office, show them the footage, and deal with the situation without it escalating further.

I have seen utility grade cameras with name brand CCD sensor chips for as low as $38.00 that work pretty well. So long as you know what your application is, these are a fine way to go.

Grade 2 – Quality. These cameras have well-known sensor chips, list 480 lines of resolution or higher, and are usually made in Taiwan rather than China or Korea. The applications for these cameras are numerous. You’ll see these in bars, restaurants, retail outlets, office buildings, banks, casinos, you name it.

The great thing about this category is its depth. You can find really nice cameras for not a lot of money by shopping around a bit. I can think of several cameras I paid less than $200 for that are a match for any of the name brands I have seen. To get the best bang for your buck, you need to do some testing. Set up a lab environment with a few feet of quality cable, some basic power supplies, and a very clear TV monitor and get to work. Quantity is the name of the game here. Test as many cameras as you can afford to or have time for, and carefully package and return the ones that don’t meet your standards. What you are looking for is cameras that look just as good as the ones you have bought from [Insert your favorite big-name brand here] for much less money. I’d suggest prioritizing by clarity, then price. With a little diligence you will wind up with some good domes, box cameras, IR cameras, weatherproof cameras, and vandal-resistant dome cameras that you can call on at any point for an installation. This will allow you to deliver premium quality without breaking the bank. The end goal should be to flesh out your “toolkit” with cameras you know can deliver, and stick with those cameras whenever possible. If you have a new situation that requires a different camera, try to go through the same process and determine a great fit, rather than winging it.

Grade 3 – Premium. These cameras are the best of the best. They are consistently great performers and are second to none. You can expect to pay $250 – $1,000 or more to be in this category. Some makers with long history and excellent reputation are Pelco, Panasonic, Sony, Samsung, Bosch, and many others. While these are indeed excellent performers, they don’t always offer the best value. You’ll see these not only in Casinos and Banks, but anywhere that really talented salespeople have been.

In all seriousness, I reserve the use of these cameras to specific cases where I absolutely cannot afford to have a customer that isn’t “wowed.” In general, I have my hands on a few toys from the Quality camera category that perform just as well (or so close I can’t tell a difference) and cost me much less money. Staying out of this premium category frequently lets me bid lower, make more money, and still deliver a fantastic finished product. Still, it is good to know these products and be able to converse knowledgeably about them. They are the “brand” names for a reason, and there are many customers out there who have already decided they want something specific from this list.

To be continued…

  • Share/Bookmark

, , , , , , , , , ,

3 Comments

Vandal-Resistant Cameras – Prevent Security Camera Tampering

Let’s face it. The economy is having a rough time. Unemployment has crept to over 7 percent, crime is on the rise, available jobs are declining, and people are struggling. While many of us find creative ways to adapt and make ends meet, others are working harder than ever to take advantage of the unsuspecting and unprepared.

In my business, we hear it all the time. Somebody stole this, so-and-so is messing with my car, somebody’s trucks are tearing up my driveway, I was robbed at gunpoint; you name it, I’ve heard it.

One thing I hear a lot, and always have, is that somebody smashed, grabbed, stole, bashed, or in some other way prevented a security camera from doing its job, which is to gather evidence.

There have been amazing advances in technology in the past 20 years or so. Things, in general of course, are getting cheaper. Vandal resistant cameras are becoming a very common thing, no longer a novelty at all. Some of them are even bullet or explosion proof!

Now, when I say inexpensive, I mean affordable for the general consumer. Vandal resistant cameras for under $100 are readily available in today’s market. They are highly resistant to damage, usually come in the ever more popular “dome” configuration, and are very easy to mount to walls, ceilings, in corners, and other hard to reach places. They are not nearly as large or obvious as a typical box camera with a big lens and a big mounting bracket.

Variety has gotten better. Toughness is now commonly combined with infrared capability, adjustable lenses, and weatherproofing to make cameras that are ideal in just about any environment.

  • Share/Bookmark

, , , , , , , , ,

6 Comments

CCTV Security Camera Mounts, Enclosures & Housings

OK, nobody ever gives camera housings much treatment in terms of press.  They’re not exciting.  They’re not glamorous; they’re not the latest greatest technology.  They’re a little bit boring, to be honest.  That’s OK.  Today they’ll get their due.CCTV Camera

The thing about housings is that they’re important.  They protect the investment that protects the rest of your investments.  We tend to buy them as an afterthought, pinch too many pennies, fail to install them properly, or make any number of  mistakes that people make when failing to consider the little details.  Do any of those things, and you wind up with your camera soaked, crashed to the ground, hanging by its video cable, covering the grass instead of the parking lot, or (dinner anyone?) cooked by the sweltering Texas sun.

There are really only a few kinds to consider, at least without considering the details.  You have your plain white ones for putting box cameras in… these come in a dozen or so flavors; polyurethane, aluminum, stainless steel, completely sealed, partially sealed, with or without that heater blower assembly (if in doubt, pay the ten bucks), the list goes on.  Pay attention, this is easy to mess up because you think it’s so easy.

First: Your camera needs to fit, including that sexy 100mm lens you bought to spy on your neighbor.  Make sure it’s the correct size.

Second: If it’s going outside, make sure it’s sealed well.  You may have little tiny air holes (on the bottom) for a heater and/or blower, but that’s it.  Put a bright light inside and close the cover.  Do you see any light coming out around the seals?  Trash it before it trashes your cameras; it wasn’t made for the great outdoors.  Dip it in water (closed) about halfway, with the front glass facing down.  Hold it 30 seconds.  Carefully dry the exterior of the housing, and your hands.  Only AFTER it is dry, open it up.  Are there any little droplets of water inside?  Again, indoors only!

Third: If the weather is extreme (use common sense folks) then pay the nominal additional fee to get a housing with a heater and blower inside.  It isn’t worth the gas for the trip you’re going to make to replace your camera later.  It’s one thing to maximize your profit.  It’s another one altogether to make predictable errors.

OK, another favorite are the little dome housings you see in almost any major grocery store.  These are there because they hide the camera.  Some of them also replace a ceiling tile, making the camera a little easier to work on if you have a crawl space.  Many of these are manufacturer specific, so make sure the proper hardware is included.  Nothing slows down an install like an extra trip to Home Depot, even though we men will take just about any excuse to visit.

PTZ Cameras almost all have housings.  These can get complicated.  For example, we sell a Samsung SCC-6403 camera.  To put it on the corner of our building, you need the outdoor enclosure, the wall mount adapter, and the corner mount adapter.  Want it on a pole?  You need a different adapter.  Hanging from a ceiling?  You need an entirely different mount.  Bottom line here; check everything before you go to your install.  Put the pieces on a table.  Look at them.  Do they seem to fit?  That’s GOOD.  If they don’t, pick up the phone (preferably 48 hours or more before your install date) and call the manufacturer or your supplier and get an expert opinion.  If you have the wrong PTZ parts when you get to the job site, odds are very good that you WILL be making another trip out.  It can be notoriously hard to get parts the same day.

There are, of course, other housing types.  You have indoor pedestal housings, hidden housings, housings made for board cameras (think Exit sign camera), and lots of other seemingly one-off or hard to find items.  The important thing is to be prepared, know that your gear is of good quality (preferably from experience), and check that all your mounting hardware will work with your cameras.

Check out ApexCCTV’s Housing and Mounts for a good idea of the different varieties and prices out there.

  • Share/Bookmark

, , , , , , , , ,

4 Comments