Security System Camera Placement: Selecting the Right Cameras
Filed under: Beginning CCTV, CCTV Articles, CCTV Camera, CCTV Security Camera Lenses, General Technology, Guides, Security Camera, Security Camera System, Tips n Tricks
One of the most important aspects of planning a new security system is selecting the correct cameras and plotting their placement. Throughout my years of helping customers with security camera systems, one of the things I hear the most is that they have captured someone on video but cannot identify them. Sometimes this is because the individual is masking their face, but the most common reason is that the person in the image simply appears too far away to accurately identify facial features.
It would certainly be nice to be able to purchase a system and cameras that are able to zoom in and identify faces from a reflection in someone’s glasses (just like on NCIS)! Unfortunately, I have yet to see a system or a camera that can actually do that with recorded video. On most video, when you try to zoom in too far, you start getting a lot of block-shaped pixels instead of a lot of detail. There are some megapixel cameras that can be zoomed-in and still give a lot of detail, but even then there is a limit to the capabilities such as frame-rate losses (also, the cost of those cameras is usually in the hundreds).
3.6mm lens at 30'
Many security cameras commonly include a fixed 3.6mm lens. On a 3.6mm lens, you get an approximate 1:1 ratio of distance from the camera to width of the image. For example, if the person is 30’ from the camera, the image at that distance is 30’ wide and about 22’ tall. That means a 6’ person is only about 1/4 the height of the image, and the face is too small to identify.
The 3.6mm lens is a wide-angle lens and is good for seeing what the individual is doing in the room, but it cannot be used to identify the individual. I recommend getting a camera with a telephoto lens aimed at a “choke point” that an individual has to walk past, and to use that camera for identification, while a wide-angle camera is used to see what they’re doing in the specific area.
Check out this lens comparison tool to help find a lens that will make identification easier.
If you get a camera with a 16mm lens, at 30’ the image is going to be about 7’ wide by 5’ tall. In this case, if you have this camera pointing at a door, you’ll get an image where a 6’ tall person would fill the image and make identification much easier. You can also get a stronger lens so that it fills only the top half of the doorway and get an even better image of the face.
When searching for a camera with a lens that fits your needs, try locating one with an adjustable lens, such as the one below. On this camera, the lens can be adjusted from a 2.8mm to a 12mm lens. This will allow you to mount the camera and then adjust the zoom & focus until the image covers the desired area.
Getting an adjustable lens can be a cost-effective way to get a camera that covers just what you need it to cover. You can also purchase a box camera that does not include a lens, and then customize it with the security camera lens of your choice. If you go this route, you can purchase a lens that is adjustable from 6mm-15mm all the way up to 5mm-100mm. Remember to select cameras with lenses that can do the job you want, and make sure to place them correctly for the best coverage.
Setting Up a PTZ Camera on a DVR System
Filed under: CCTV Camera, General Technology, GeoVision, Guides, Security Camera, Security Camera System
PTZ (pan, tilt, and zoom) cameras give you the ability to remotely move a camera to a position where you can see what is normally out of the camera’s field of view. There are many makes and models of PTZ cameras available on the market, but all analog PTZ cameras have to be setup the same way (IP- PTZ cameras are another story altogether).
On a standard analog camera, you have a cable to carry video and another to carry power. On a PTZ camera, you also have a set of wires that control the movement of the camera. The control wires are usually twisted pair wire at 22-24 gauge. For the control wires to carry the signal, you must have communication between the camera and the software that runs the DVR. The control wire communicates to the DVR software through a connector called a RS485 (shown below).
If you have a standalone DVR that supports PTZ cameras, there will be a connector like this one on the back of the DVR. If you have a standalone DVR that does not have this connector, chances are that it unfortunately cannot be added.
There are a few PTZ cameras that come with a handheld remote controller, where the RS485 connector is located directly on the remote control receiver (not connected to the DVR). In this case, you can control the camera with the remote controller, but not through the software of the DVR. This also means that you cannot connect to the DVR from a remote location and control the PTZ, because it’s not configured in the software.
GeoVision GV-Net Card w/ RS485 Connector
If you have a PC-based DVR using a capture card, you will require a RS485 installed on the PC. Some brands, like GeoVision, supply a DVR card that has the RS485 connector built-in.
Another way a PTZ camera can be controlled is with a keyboard/joystick designed specifically for this purpose, but that is another article on its own.
Now that you have the hardware necessary to run a PTZ camera, you will need to get the protocol, address, and baud rate the camera is using. On most cameras, when the image first appears on the screen, it will have superimposed over the screen the protocol, address, and baud rate that the camera is set to use. On some cameras, this will stay on the screen until the camera is correctly configured, while on other cameras, it will come up and stay on the screen for a specific period of time (according to the camera manufacturer’s specifications).
If your DVR supports the camera’s protocol, all you have to do is find the PTZ camera setup menu and enter the information. But if the DVR have lacks support for the camera’s protocol, you will have to manually set the camera to the proper protocol. Many PTZ cameras will support a protocol called Pelco D (dome). This is a universal protocol designed for this purpose. Keep in mind when using Pelco D that all of the features for the camera may not work. If this happens, there isn’t much you can do unless you can acquire an updated version of your DVR software that supports the native protocol of your camera.
You may have to change the address of the camera to avoid address conflicts, and if you have more than one PTZ camera, you will have to change the address of one of the cameras.
If you have to change a setting on your camera, this will normally be done with dip switches on the camera itself. These switches are used to change the cam’s protocol, baud rate, and address. You will need the manual for the camera to find out how to set the switches to get the camera settings you need. Below is a picture of some dip switches found on cameras.
If you have not done so before, setting the address on a PTZ camera can be a little confusing. I have included the following explanation on how most of these cameras set the switches for an address:
When setting up an address on a PTZ camera, the camera will have an address, baud rate, and protocol that you must know in order to setup in a DVR. As an example, the AP-LPTDX camera has a set of 10 dip switches that are used to set the address, baud rate, and protocol. Dips 1-6 are used to set the address.
The dips are not standard switches that indicate something simple, like “address 4 is set when you throw switch 4 only.” They are using binary math to determine addresses. The chart below shows what each of the 6 switches represents.
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 |
| 1bit | 2 bits | 4 bits | 8 bits | 16 bits | 32 bits |
Here are some examples of acquiring desired addresses for cameras:
- EX1: Customer wants camera #2 to have address 2. Turn switch 2 on all others off.
- EX2: Customer wants camera #5 to have address 5. Turn switches 1 and 3 on all others off (1+4=5).
- EX3: Customer wants camera #12 to have address 10. Turn switches 2 and 4 on all others off (8+2=10).
- EX4: Customer wants camera #5 to have address 44. Turn switches 6, 4 and 3 on, all others off (32+8+4=44).
Troubleshooting:
One other thing we commonly see is the control wires getting crossed. To avoid this issue, make sure you have the wires correctly connected at the camera and the DVR. Make sure you have matching wire color on each end of the wire. The control wires are using relatively weak DC signal, so if you need to change the polarity of the wires, you can do this with power on the system.
Another issue I’ve seen is when the setup in the DVR software is using one com port, but the device manager is showing the device using a different port. If you think you have the camera configured correctly, check the ports and change the software setting to match the port used in the device manager.
As long as you get the correct information from your camera, and set the same information in your DVR software, setting up a PTZ camera is not too complicated. The problem comes when you are entering mismatched information into the DVR’s software. If this happens, the camera will not respond to command inputs, so write down the settings your camera gives you, and remember to check your settings in the DVR!
Basics of Setting Up a DVR for Remote Connections
Filed under: CCTV Articles, General Technology, Guides, Networking, Security Camera, Security DVR
As a support technician, one of the most frequent questions I am asked is how to setup a DVR so it can be viewed from another location or iPhone / Android / Blackberry smartphone. As you will soon see, this can be a complicated and time-consuming process; this is why companies usually charge to log in to a customers network to set this up for them.
When I describe the process of setting up a DVR for remote connections I use the following analogy to describe what has to happen:
For someone to go to your home or place of business, they must first have the address. This is the same when someone is trying to connect to the network where your DVR is located – they will require the address to get there.
The address for your network is the router or modem’s external IP address. You can find the external IP from any computer on the network (the same network with the DVR) by opening the internet browser and in the address line type in http://www.whatismyip.com and hit Enter. This will take you to a webpage and display the following screen (my address was blurred to keep my information private).
To get access to the network with your DVR, open your internet browser and type in the external IP address. Once you are there (if you have not forwarded the ports to the DVR), it’s kind of like entering an office building, walking into the lobby, and looking down a hallway with dozens of doors marked only by numbers such as 101, 102, 103, etc. You have arrived at the correct location, but you don’t know what room to go to find the DVR. When you forward the correct ports in the router (or modem) it is like putting a sign in the lobby telling you to go to room 102 or whatever (location of the DVR).
Now for the more complicated part (if you have never worked with networking).
To actually setup the DVR for remote connection, the first thing you need to do is find a valid IP address on your local network. To do this, you’ll need to log into your router and find the DHCP range being used. You’ll then want to select an IP address that is OUTSIDE of the DHCP range.
Ex: If the DHCP range is 192.168.1.2-192.168.1.50, you would select an IP for the DVR that is not in the range of addresses ending with 2-50.
Then using the command prompt, ping the address you have selected to see if the address is available. Once you find an address that is available, give the DVR that IP address and set the DVR so it no longer uses DHCP. If you do not do this you risk having an IP conflict with another device on the network.
You can then test the DVR by connecting to it on the local network by opening an internet browser and typing the IP address you gave it into the internet browser’s address line. If you have the DVR set to enable web service, you should get the login screen and be able to view cameras once you login with the ID and Password.
Once you are able to login on a local PC, you know the DVR is broadcasting, and the IP address you used is valid.
Next you’ll have to setup the router to allow remote access to the DVR.
Since there are a LOT of different routers and modems out there, I cannot go into detail on how you actually forward the ports on a specific router. There are different sources available on the internet describing how to forward ports on a specific router, such as searching the make and model of your router, or more generic sites like www.portforward.com, which will have screenshots on how to forward ports for a large list of routers.
To get the ports that need to be forwarded for your DVR, you will have to check the documentation that came with your DVR.
Once you have the ports forwarded in the router, you should be ready to connect to the DVR from a remote location or a smartphone. Some DVRs require a proprietary application to access from a remote PC, but most of the newer models will connect through Internet Explorer. Very few DVRs will connect through the Mac Safari program (I have never seen one that will). Usually if a DVR will connect with a Mac, you will have to load a specific program on the Mac and connect to the DVR through that program.
All of the DVRs that will connect to a smartphone will require an application loaded on the phone from the phone’s app stores. To get the correct app, check the documentation that came with you DVR.
For some examples of CCTV apps in motion, be sure to check out our smartphone security videos to see software running on iPhones, Android, and Blackberry smartphones.
Referring back to my original analogy, you are now ready to go to the address of your network by entering the external IP address of the router (where the DVR is located) in the address line of your browser, and if everything has been done correctly, you’ll get the login screen for your DVR.
This describes a basic network connection setup for a DVR, where the network does not have any special setup that requires special permissions to change any network configuration or multiple routers. Some networks are simple and some are complex. Unless you are the network administrator for your system, networks are “like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get.”
Standalone DVR Pro Review: AP-FD Series
Filed under: CCTV Articles, General Technology, Reviews, Security DVR
Having been a technician in the CCTV camera industry for several years now, I’ve been asked over and over: “Which is better, a PC based or standalone DVR?” The answer pretty much depends on the application of the DVR; there are several factors to consider when selecting a DVR system that will suit an individual’s needs.
There is one feature that is presently not available from standalone DVRs, and that is the support of IP cameras. So far we have not seen any standalone DVR that will support an IP camera.
For the purpose of this blog, I am going to cover the feature-rich AP-FD series of standalone DVRs, which come available in 4, 9 or 16 channels.
On the image above you will see that there is a DVR burner on the machine. These machines have the option to add the DVD burner or a 2nd hard drive. The video quality on this DVR is very good and offers D1 image and H.264 recordings. Image quality, size and frame rate are customizable for each channel on the DVR. This is a feature that was not available in past standalone DVRs.
If you use a 2nd hard drive you can set up a mirror RAID for added reliability. This is another feature that was not available on past DVRs. You an add several PTZ cameras on this machine as it comes with several available protocols and a RS485 connector built into the back panel. The DVR uses a mouse to navigate, this is a feature that most of the newer standalone DVRs have but 2 years ago, they were very hard to find. On all of the models, you can have up to 4 channels with audio.
This machine has the best Central Monitoring Software I have ever seen for remote connections with remote administration. The program can be used to connect to one or multiple FD DVRs at one time. In the shop, I have connected up to 16 machines at one time.
One of the highlights for me is that fact that when you burn video from this machine, it creates a self executing file that needs no conversion to play on a PC. This is a very good feature because all other standalones I have ever seen require burned video to be opened in a viewer supplied by the manufacturer and then converted so it will play on a PC.
Since I have been in this industry, I have seen more than 30 different models of standalone DVRs, and the FD series is the only one I have recommended to customers that are using PC based machines. The DVR is very easy to use, video is easy to control, the quality is great, and the machine is very reliable. I have recommended and converted 2 restaurant chains to this DVR, and the customers have been very happy with the new machines.
How Recording Resolution Effects a DVR's Frames per Second
Filed under: CCTV Articles, CCTV Security DVR Cards, Security DVR
There are a lot of variables that affect what you see on the monitor when viewing video playback files from a CCTV security camera system. Frames per second (FPS) are usually one of the first and main considerations when making a system purchase, but there are a few things you should know before running out and buying a surveillance system that simply boasts “30FPS!”.
Frame rate is defined by how many still images per second are being displayed, and affects how smooth a video appears. If you have a low frame rate of say 7 FPS, you are going to see images that appear to jerk through motion. In some cases, this slightly jerky video is acceptable, but, if you are going for maximum clarity and detail, it may not be. As the FPS increases, so does the smoothness of the video. The maximum FPS you are going to see in the surveillance industry is 30 FPS, which is about the same number that the human eye can register. Most people will not be able to tell the difference in 30 and 15 FPS, though, because they both produce relatively smooth video. Check out our FPS Comparison Video for a side-by-side comparison of 3, 8, 15 and 30 frames per second.
On most digital video recorder (DVR) systems, whenever you pump up one setting, you are going to lose something in another area. DVRs that advertise 30 FPS per channel are basing that figure on a set image size. For instance, if you get a GeoVision GV800 card that has 30 FPS per channel, that number is based on an image size of 320×240 pixels. On that Geo card, if you increase the recording resolution from 320×240 pixels to 640×480 pixels, your FPS per channel will drop by about half. You would then be viewing recorded video at about 15 FPS. If you increase the resolution again, to 720×480 pixels, the FPS will drop again by about half, leaving you with about 7 FPS, which may be undesirable.
Some of the newer, high end DVR cards are now using hardware to compensate for the loss of frame rate when increasing image size. These are not, however, inexpensive systems. The GeoVision GV-1480A capture card, for example, will allow you to increase the image size to 720×480 and lose only 1 or 2 FPS.
The technology is continuing to advance, and hopefully we will see more affordable, real time recording solutions in the near future. Until then, you have to look at your application, determine what level of detail and clarity you need, and go from there. Remember to always check the maximum FPS per channel and at what resolution that records at. It may be hard to make out subjects at 320×240 or 640×480 pixels, especially at 7 FPS, so if you want a truly effective security camera system, you probably want to up your expectations on pricing, etc, and go ahead and spend the extra money to be truly protected.
If you have had experiences where buying higher quality equipment has saved you in the long run, or visa-versa, please let us! Real world applications provide the true value that allows people to make educated decisions about future projects and purchases, and we really appreciate them.
BLC or Backlight Compensation – Security Camera Switches & Adjustments
BLC:
BLC stands for backlight compensation. It is normally set to the Off position in standard lighting conditions. If you have a CCTV security camera in a shady area that points toward a brightly lit area, set this setting to On to help the camera compensate for the brightness and enhance the image.
L/H or Level Adjustment – Security Camera Switches & Adjustments
L/H or Level Adjustment:
The L/H level is a gain adjustment on the back of a security camera. It should be used to adjust the camera for the best acceptable brightness. This is normally only an issue in a situation where the CCTV camera’s power cable’s length has reached a point where the voltage to the camera has dropped off due to resistance in the cable. This is a very touchy control, and if you set it towards the low setting the camera could lose power and go completely out. This will not damage the camera, just adjust back towards a high setting and it should come back online.
We tested this in our shop with an auto iris lens on the camera. Whenever we made changes to the setting we would see changes in the image quality but could not see anything definitive as to what it was doing. Our senior installer says whenever we made a change the auto iris would try to correct it which follows what the manufacturer says about the setting. We later tested this with a manual iris and saw small differences in the brightness of the image. Our senior installer says he has used this in the field and the only time he has seen it make any difference is when security cameras are ran 200’ or more from their power source.
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